Pigmentation & sun damage
Patches that darkened one summer and never fully faded. Spots along the cheekbones. Marks left behind by breakouts that cleared months ago. Pigment is the slowest concern to treat and one of the most rewarding, provided you are treating the right kind.
There are three different things people call dark spots, and they do not respond to the same treatment.
Sun damage. Flat brown spots, usually on the cheekbones, forehead, nose, and the backs of the hands. Accumulated over decades and often visible only from your forties, though the damage was done much earlier. These respond well and relatively quickly.
Melasma. Larger, symmetrical patches across the cheeks, upper lip, and forehead. Hormonally driven, triggered by pregnancy, birth control, or perimenopause, and made worse by heat as well as light. This is the difficult one, and anyone promising to clear it permanently is overpromising.
Post-inflammatory pigment. The marks left after a breakout heals, ranging from pink to brown to grey depending on your skin tone. Not scarring, and it does fade, though it takes months without help.
Getting this wrong is expensive. Aggressive resurfacing on melasma can darken it, and the wrong approach on post-breakout marks means treating pigment while new breakouts keep making more. Which is why I want to look before recommending anything.
Spots on the high points
Discrete brown marks across cheekbones, forehead, and nose. Classic accumulated sun exposure.
Symmetrical patches
Larger areas appearing on both sides of the face in roughly the same places. Usually hormonal.
It worsens every summer
Darker by September, slightly better by March, never gone.
Marks where spots used to be
Pink or brown shadows tracing where breakouts were, long after the breakout cleared.
Overall dullness
Not distinct spots but a general unevenness, with skin that no longer looks clear.
It arrived with a hormonal change
Pregnancy, coming off birth control, or perimenopause, with no change in sun habits.
Every treatment on this page is undone by two weeks of unprotected sun. Pigment is the one concern where the home care genuinely outranks the facial.
What is actually happening
Melanocytes sit at the base of your epidermis and produce pigment to protect the cells above them. When they are triggered, by UV, by heat, by inflammation, or by hormones, they overproduce and deposit pigment unevenly.
The depth decides the difficulty. Pigment near the surface lifts relatively easily with resurfacing. Pigment sitting deeper in the dermis, which is common in melasma, is far more stubborn and does not respond to surface work alone.
Southern California makes it worse. Year-round UV, plenty of it incidental. Driving, walking to the car, sitting near a window. Most of the sun damage I see was not acquired at the beach.
Heat is a trigger too, not just light. This surprises people with melasma. Hot yoga, saunas, and standing over a stove can all darken it, which is why SPF alone sometimes is not enough.
Slowly, and in the right order
- Identify the type firstSun damage, melasma, and post-breakout marks need different approaches. This is the step that decides whether the rest works.
- Stop the sourceTreating pigment while it is still being produced is pouring water into a leaking bucket. Daily SPF is not optional here, it is the treatment.
- Resurface at the right paceEnough to lift pigment, not enough to trigger inflammation, which produces more pigment. This balance is most of the skill.
- Interrupt the productionTargeted brightening ingredients that slow pigment formation, used consistently rather than intensely.
- Gentler on deeper skin tonesRicher skin tones are more prone to post-inflammatory pigment, so aggressive treatment carries real risk of making things worse. I treat more conservatively, deliberately.
- Patience, honestlyTwelve to sixteen weeks for meaningful change. Anyone offering faster is either overpromising or planning to be too aggressive.
What lifts pigment
Ageless Glow Peel
35 to 45 min · $175. The main treatment for pigment. Controlled resurfacing that lifts discolouration and evens tone. Expect light flaking for a few days. Usually a course rather than a one-off.
Book Ageless Glow PeelVitality & Renew
50 min · $195. Enzyme exfoliation for skin too reactive for a peel, or as the maintenance treatment between peels. Gentler, slower, safer on deeper skin tones.
Book Vitality & RenewThe Icon
90 min · $395. Resurfacing, brightening, and hydration in one visit. The option when uneven tone is one of several things you want addressed at once.
Book The IconThe Glow Edit
One hour, virtual or in person. Worth doing first with pigment specifically, because the type determines the treatment and getting it wrong can set you back months.
Book The Glow EditWhat to expect
- Post-breakout marks
- 8 to 12 weeks
- Surface sun damage
- 12 to 16 weeks
- Deeper sun damage
- Several months, a course
- Melasma
- Managed, not cured
- Without daily SPF
- None of the above
At home, where this is won or lost
I will say it plainly because it is the single most important thing on this page. If you are not wearing SPF every single day, including in the car and in winter, no treatment here will hold. Pigment returns faster than it lifts.
Beyond that, brightening works by consistency rather than strength. Something used every day for four months outperforms something stronger used sporadically. Browse the brightening collection, though I would rather tell you which one before you buy it.
The Rituals bundle the routine in order, and The Protocols are the medical-grade version once your skin can take it. If you want thirty days of structure with daily guidance from me, that is The Boutique Glow Method.
Any mole or pigmented mark that is changing in size, shape, or colour, or that bleeds, itches, or looks different from everything else on your skin, needs a dermatologist rather than an esthetician. I am not qualified to assess it and I will always say so. If I see something during a treatment that I think warrants a look, I will tell you.
Let me look before you treat
With pigment more than any other concern, the type decides the treatment, and the wrong approach can darken what you are trying to lift. An hour with me first is the cheapest insurance there is.